restoring carbon steel knife

9, and scrubbed the hinges again, as well as between the scales. Steel knife blades are rust resistant but will still begin to rust and tarnish if they are not maintained properly. Whether you buy an antique knife or one gets passed on to you, it’s likely that it’ll be rusted, grimey, dull…less than ideal for both collecting and using. There are many ways to do that but it is the same idea as a rifle barrel. Maybe you were looking through your grandfather’s treasure box, took a shine to the knife, and Gramps said you could have it. Share it with us! If you get a knife that needs cleaning on the scales — particularly on a textured surface like this one — the brass brush comes in handy as well. That describes myself. After you’ve found out a little bit about the knife, it’s time to get restoring! With that criteria, it was easy to settle on pocket knives (every man needs them!). Keep in mind these are supplies mostly for cleaning, sharpening, and loosening hinges. Just spray a bit, let it soak, wipe it off with a polishing cloth or even paper towel, then rinse and repeat as needed. Smart thought on the mineral oil though! I'm 98% sure that's walnut, not rosewood, especially if that's US or European made. Suffice it to say, it looked like crap. During the break between other projects, I found old cleaver/knife in the trashes/scrap-heap. I don't really know the properties of rosewood - perhaps a different wood wouldn't fare so well, but at any rate the sandblasting worked wonders on the handle: took the gunk and crap off and left nice, clean wood. I always find it very satisfying to buff up an old peice so it is really nice. Thank you for sharing your knife tale. Supplies For Restoring a Pocket Knife. As it is a high carbon steel and not a stainless steel the blade should be treated properly to minimize rust. Ahhh, good observation! The difference is rather noticeable, particularly on the Frontier. Prolly much safer, easier, and better results using a polishing wheel on a bench grinder. Apply metal polish or mineral oil to protect the blade if your knife isn't used for food preparation. Some pittings were deeper than 2mm (0,07inch). Next, you’ll use the brass brush to get into some of those harder-to-reach places. I don't suppose you did anything like this? The Art of Manliness participates in affiliate marketing programs, which means we get paid commissions on editorially chosen products purchased through our links. 4 years ago. Use your judgment, and give a good sharpening if needed. I probably worked for 10 or 20 mins with the steel wool to get the results that you see. It left a pretty typical sand-blast finish on the blade: clean, but a very dull luster. This is a pretty easy fix with penetrating oil. Sand the wood and grind the metal. On my knives, I sprayed at the beginning, and then again at the end as a closing step. 6 years ago The first thing you’ll want to do is wipe the knife down with a wet paper towel, including the space between the scales (the scales are just the outer pieces of the knife handle — between them is where the blade lies). I'm not going to get into any details of sharpening a knife - there are plenty of instructables, videos, and such with instructions and explanations. This was incredibly dangerous - although the blade wasn't sharp, this knife did have a rather pointy end that would've easily pierced my hand. Inspect your knives regularly for signs of rust or unwanted oxidation and clean them occasionally to remove dust or other dirt that can trap moisture and lead to rusting. Or Do Cardio Before Weights? Must be the camera angles and/or lighting that make the handle look smaller post sandblasting; it didn't shrink (save perhaps a 64th or thereabout of an inch). great piece. Should You Lift Weights Before Doing Cardio? Yeah, actually, I did contemplate doing something to the blade to keep it shiny, but I figured it's a high carbon steel knife - they oxidize, it's just what they do. Last year, when I took my 30-plus year old "Old Hickory" s in for new edges, the gentleman told me he had a pair as well, and to just wipe them dry after using them and use a bit of vegetable oil before putting them back in their sheaths. I was wondering what the wood was, Thanks! It's a pretty good knife, it glides through meat, cuts through silverskin like it's nothing. Well done. So how do you go about restoring the knife to its former glory? I use enough mineral oil (preserving knives, antique meat grinder parts, and sharpening) that I buy mineral oil in a big jug from a butcher supply house. part two of my short series on how to maintain your high carbon steel knives and how to keep blades them from rusting. You can start to see some good luster. They aren’t perfect, but are in far better condition than what I started with. If you can’t find any identifying information on your vintage blade, snap a picture, upload it to any number of knife forums (allaboutpocketknives.com is a good one), and get someone else on the case. Knives that are held over a burning flame may discolor and accumulate a buildup of carbon residue on the blade. I made it at [restored it at] TechShop - check it out: techshop.ws. After you’ve found out a little bit about the knife, it’s time to get restoring! This gets some of the finer rust and grimey particles. My boss told me that an old widow brought this knife into the shop and gave it to him, saying that it was her husband's - who was a butcher and that she wanted the knife to stay in the butcher business. After the steel wool, I used some 400 grit, then 600 grit sandpaper (both with water). I was pleased that the handle was just fine in the sandblaster. Nice job. It ends up much cheaper oz that grocery store mineral oil. Reply I just restored the exact same knife! Please comment, 6 years ago • I probably spent 20 mins with each grit of sandpaper. Before cleaning/restoring the knives. So I started shining it, first with coarse steel wool, then fine steel wool. Here is is in action: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ACBH9LxWdUEdit: Some guy from internet told me that using olive oil for wooden things isn't the great idea so, don't do that. January 21, 2016 Then, I switched to 400-grit, and scrubbed again. I bought some food-grade mineral oil in the pharmacy section of my local big grocery store for this purpose. Then I spent about 30 mins buffing with a clean cotton terrycloth towel that was slightly damp. Clean the carbon stains from your knife to restore its look and protect its functionality for years to come. Does Ibuprofen Help or Hurt Your Workouts? I rinse my high carbon knives in super hot water so it flash evaporates, then wipe dry and put a light coat of mineral oil. Smart move on the vinegar! Blue it, which is a controlled way of rusting it in a fine finish so that the large red rust has a harder time getting started. Anyone want me to make one of my home aid knife? It’s hard to read in this image, but the gold shield here on the knife reads “Frontier.” I came to discover it’s a line of knives made by Imperial. (Okay, maybe not quite like new, but darn close!). Do know it takes some elbow grease and real scrubbing to get it all. Incorrect. Clearly a butcher's knife needs to be sharp. One of the knives I bought was clearly recently sharpened, but the other was pretty dull.

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